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Split Ends
Types of Split Ends
Sigh. We all have experienced these nuisances before and unfortunately its an almost inevitable part of hair life. Hair is the youngest when it emerges from your scalp at the root and gets the oldest the farther down you go, therefore the oldest part of your hair is at the tip. So it shouldn’t be any surprise that you have to be more kind and gentle to the oldest part of your hair. So what causes split ends? Well a number of factors; vigorous styling such as constant brushing or combing, lack of moisture, usage of too much heat, using dull scissors to cut split ends, holding tools such as rubber bands just to name a few. When you get a split end there is no magical way of ever repairing it. The only cure is to cut. Do not think you can just hold on to damaged ends because you will only hurt your hair more by the split traveling further up the hair shaft which will only mean more hair to clip.
To clip your own split ends get a pair of sharp sheers designed specifically for hair. If you use regular, blunt scissors you can actually do more harm to your hair than good for the cut will leave the hair jagged and cause new problems.
With dry hair sit in a well lit area with mirrors so you can see what you are doing clearly. Take a small strand of hair and gently twist it in a downward motion. The damaged ends will stick out of the twist. With the sheers, cut off the damaged ends about 1/4th an inch above to insure healthy hair endings.
“You have some good hair Are you mixed?”
If you are like me, this could be one of the most irritating questions you can ever receive. Somewhere in our timeline, African-Americans seem to have subscribed to the myth that black people can’t have long hair and if they do its because they are bi or multi-racial. However, no one has seem to have given thought to the fact that maybe because of poor hair care habits, there hair is not retaining length. Everybody regardless of race on average hair grows at about .5 inches a month. So your hair not growing because you’re black is already debunked. Black people have the most curly hair type and the most fragile. It’s very important that we become informed on what exactly we are doing to style our heads. Getting a relaxer every time you see a pinch of new growth isn’t going to yield any great results, using heat appliances everyday to keep your hair straight will only burn your hair out, and yanking and pulling at your hair because its tangled is only going to rip your hair. With our hair type, we require the most moisture however, with so much misinformation about hair care products a lot of the times people pick of items such as grease to fulfill the moisture needs of their hair however it has the exact opposite effect. It is very possible for a black woman that is not mixed to have long healthy hair, its all in the matter of how she takes care of it.
Not All Shampoos are created equally!
Bottles of shampoo on a shelf.
Back when I was younger, I was taught that all shampoos were the same thing and it didn’t matter which kind I used. As a result, my hair was usually dried out. As I later learned, all shampoos do not exactly clean the hair alike. There are several different types of shampoos which I’ll break down and what ingredients to avoid.
When you go to pick up a conditioner, it is going to be in either one of two categories: 2-in-1 cleanser or a basic cleansing shampoo. 2-in-1 cleansers are shampoo and conditioner combined. I wouldn’t recommend these unless you are going on a trip and have little time to spend on washing your hair. Other than that, you should consider a cleansing shampoo for washing your hair.
Cleansing shampoos are broken down into two main categories: regular cleansing shampoos and clarifying shampoo. Regular cleansing shampoos will only cleanse dirt and debris from the hair follicles it does not clean any buildup from the scalp. When shopping for a regular shampoo they are either moisturizing or protein shampoos. I would only suggest for you to buy a moisturizing shampoo because shampoos stay on your hair for such a short amount of time that the protein in it is practically useless. In addition, the hair will require more moisture than protein.
Clarifying shampoos cleanses the entire head of all dirty buildup. Now I know you’re wondering why can’t I just get a clarifying shampoo and call it a day? Well, clarifying shampoos completely strips everything including natural sebum from the scalp. If you were to use this often, you will dry your hair out. Clarifying shampoos should only be used about once every 2 weeks or even less depending on how many product you use in your head. Your head will usually tell you when it is time to clarify. Does your scalp just feel sore for no reason at all? When you use a product on your hair, does it seem as though its not taking as well as it usually does? Well my friend maybe its time for a clarifying wash.
Note: When you do a clarifying cycle, use your clarifying shampoo first then do the second lathering with your regular, moisturizing shampoo.
What is in a good shampoo?
Many drugstore brands of shampoo consist of ingredients called sulfates. Sulfates are Ammonium Laryl/Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Laryl/Laureth Sulfate, or TEA Laryl/Laureth Sulfate. For the lathering effect in shampoos, companies use these detergents. They are known to be very harsh on hair and cause irritation to the scalp. Its best that you look for shampoos without these ingredients. Many natural shampoos will not sud because of the lack of sulfates but they do get the job done. If you must however though pick up a shampoo with a sulfate in it pick up one with sodium laureth sulfate, it is the lesser of evils, however it is still evil.
For natural moisturizing shampoos try:
Abba Pure Moisture Shampoo
Burt’s Bees shampoo line
Carol’s Daughter
For a natural clarifying shampoo try:
Elucence Volume Clarifying Shampoo
Aveda Hair Detoxifier
Cristophe Beverly Hills Purely Natural Clarifying Shampoo
You can also try the mix of either water and baking soda or you can just use apple cider vinegar.
Cooking Oil for hair?
When it comes to hair maintance many people are taken back with the idea of putting something that you cook with on your hair. But did you know it could be one of the best things you ever used?
Oils have many uses outside of cooking such as skin care and hair care. These are the most natural items you can use rather than buying an “oil” from your beauty supply store. They are rich in essential fatty acids that are the closet thing to our body’s natural sebum.
There are 2 types of oils, carrier oils and essential oils. Carrier oils usually have moisturizing properties whereas essential oils have “medical” properties when it comes to cosmetic care. Usually essential oils have strong scents. Because of the scents of essentials some use them just to add fragrance to a product, for instance, lavender oil, orange oil, peppermint.
A carrier oil can be used alone, however essential oils must be diluted in an essential oil because of its potency.
In Terms of Hair Care -
Carrier Oils:
Jojoba Oil: When used it has similar characteristics of the hair’s natural oil, sebum.
Coconut Oil: Creates a chemical barrier on the skin. Can be used as an effective treatment for dandruff and dry scalp. Also good for shine.
Olive Oil: Oil with moisturizing properties similar to coconut oil. Is heavier than coconut oil.
Sweet Almond Oil: Acts similar to baby sebum.
Grapeseed Oil: Oil with moisturizing properties
Castor Oil: Used to help thicken hair follicles. Is a humectant.
Types of Essential Oils:
Peppermint Oil: Can help stimulate hair growth.
Tea Tree Oil: Natural anti-fungal. Can be used for acne as well as keeping the scalp clean and clear of fungus. Has sort of a minty
Lavender Oil: Has anti-fungal properties similar to tea tree oil and an amazing scent.
Rosemary Oil: Used to help stimulate hair growth.
Orange Oil: Has anti-fungal properties.
Growth Aides?
What are growth aides?
Growth aides are products used either externally (oils, serums, etc) or internally (vitamins) to help gain hair growth. One thing you should understand however, is hair growth in general. The average human’s hair grows .5 inches per month meaning 6 inches a year. There are a few exceptions- some people may experience a little more, some may experience a little less. But do not expect too much from a growth aide such as 4 inches in 1 week because that’s unrealistic and if there were a growth aide out there that could get you that amount of growth in such a short time, the inventor would be a multi-millionaire for discovering a medical miracle. You will be lucky enough to get an inch per month. Do not rely on a growth aide to do all the work in hair growth. Yes you can get your hair to grow but without putting in work to maintain the hair you already have, you will not retain any length.
Now with that said lets look at the types of growth aides. There’s topical growth aides and internal growth aides.
Topical Growth Aides
Topical growth aides should be applied directly to the scalp.
Megatek
As of right now this is one of the most popular growth aides. This is a hair conditioner used for horses however also safe for human usage as well. The company that makes this product also make Ovation Cell Therapy which is pretty much the same product but more expensive.
How it Works: Blend of amino acids and proteins to help stimulate scalp.
How to use: While head is wet, apply ample amount to scalp and massage through. Leave on for about 5 minutes and rinse out. I usually do this while i’m washing my hair. Do not use this product every day for it is a heavy protein product and can harden the hair.
Warnings: Using too much of this product can cause hair breakage. This is a conditioner with alot of protein and too much protein can make the hair hard and easily break. Some users claim to have experienced increased shedding with this.
Mane Tail Groom (MTG)
This product is marketed towards horses, however this product was originally created for the human’s head before being labeled for horses. There is also another formula by this company called Sulu Max Gro. If you want to try this the company that makes it is Shapleys, not StraightArrow.
How it works: Sulfur mixture keeps the scalp clean of bacteria and stimulates growth.
How to use: Moisturize your scalp and hair before before applying. Shake very well before using and apply directly to a dry scalp do not use alot. Because its oily it has a tendency to run.
Warnings: MTG can be very drying to the hair and skin. Getting a little on your neck or forehead can cause your skin to peel. It also has a very strong odor and is recommended to use with a mask.
Miconazole Nitrate (MN)
This is the most controversial growth aid. MN is the active ingredient found in yeast infection, jock itch, and athlete’s foot creams. There’s two versions 2% MN and 4% MN.
How it works: Unknown however the theory is that mn keeps the scalp clean of fungus that eats away at the hair while providing oxygen to the roots to stimulate growth.
How to use: Moisturize scalp before usage. Take a small amount of cream and spread on scalp. Some mix mn with sulfur 8 or oils which is optional
Warnings: MN has not been approved for usage on the head. Some who have used it have experienced headaches and dizzy spells. Also MN is not recommended for those who are using blood-thinners.
Natural alternatives:
Essential oils such as rosemary oil, tea tree, lavender, and peppermint are all scalp stimulates however essential oils are very potent and cannot be used alone.
Sulfur: This is one of the most abundant compounds found in hair. Its also good for keeping the scalp clean however it can be very drying to the head.
Cayenne Pepper: I am not too familiar with this personally however cayenne pepper is used as a topical growth aide. The theory is that, capsasin, the chemical element that makes the pepper hot stimulates blood flow to the scalp bringing needed nutrients to the area to stimulate growth.
Side effects: It burns!
Internal:
Biotin(B7) (Vitamin H)
A water-soluble b-complex vitamin. Used to help cell growth the production of fatty acids, metabolism of fats, and proteins. When taking biotin keep in mind, it is not possible to overdose on biotin because the body will only use what it needs and dispose of the rest. Therefore, there is no point of taking very large dosages.
Side effects: Few have reported breakouts from taking biotin. Its recommended that you during a few glasses a water when taking it.
Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM)
Sulfur compound found in food and is the 3rd largest ingredient found in the human body and specifically in hair and nails. Because of food processing much msm is lost in foods. MSM is also water soluble and cannot be overdosed. It is best to take this in conjunction with vitamin c.
Side effects: MSM is also used for cellular detox. Some who have used it claimed to have experienced headaches and for women irregular periods. Take with water and food if experiencing headaches.
multivitamins
Prenatal vitamins and multivitamins are good sources for body and hair nutrition as well. Avoid vitamins from dollar store because these brands usually contain alot of fillers and not much of the nutrient.